Uli Biaho
Uli Biaho is a peak near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. It consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as 6109 m (20,058 feet)); and Uli Biaho Peak (Kopold: 6417 m), which as of 2006 was unclimbed.[1]
Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by John Roskelley et al. All four USA climbers reached the summit on July 3, 1979.[2] Roskelley included a chapter on Uli Biaho in his 1993 book Stories Off the Wall.[3]
Notable ascents
- 1979 - Uli Biaho Tower (19,957 feet) - East Face - VII F8 A4 (34 pitches). June 24 - July 5th, 1979 - John Roskelley, Kim Schimtz, Ron Kauk and Bill Forrest.[4]
- 2006 - Uli Biaho Tower (20,058 feet or 6109 m) - Drastissima VI/6 ABO (Northwest Face). June 23 - June 25, 2006 - Gabo Cmarik and Jozef 'Dodo' Kopold (Slovakia).[5][6]
See also
References
- ^ Kopold, Dodo (Nov 27, 2006). "Uli Biaho Tower". Alpinist Magazine Climbing Notes. Height of Land Publications. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/climbing-notes-uli-biaho. Retrieved Sept 30, 2009.
- ^ Roskelley, John (1980). ""The Obvious Line" - Uli Biaho". American Alpine Journal 1980 (Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club) 22 (53): 405–416. ISBN 978-0-930410-76-6.
- ^ Roskelley, John (1993). Stories Off the Wall. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0898866094.
- ^ AAJ 1980 op. cit.
- ^ MacDonald, Dougald (July 26, 2006). "Slovaks Climb Huge Ice Line on Uli Biaho". Climbing Magazine Hot Flashes. Skram Media LLC. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/icelineulibiaho06/. Retrieved Sept 30, 2009.
- ^ Kopold / Alpinist Magazine 2006 op. cit.